For a super-cheap family holiday look no further than Bali. It has plenty of culture, beaches, shopping and fun activities.
The airline we use from Australia is Jetstar, they are consistently the cheapest. When we first went to Bali many years ago, we were referred to Putu – a man with a phone, who could get you a cheap apartment at the Jayakarta Hotel. Now he has a permanent office just down the road and employs a handful of staff. He can offer accomodation in many different hotels and can organise activities and day trips as well. There is also a reliable money-changer just opposite his office.
Legian
ACCOMODATION
The Jayakarta is a large hotel in the heart of Legian, which is more family-friendly than Kuta. There are three buildings with apartments, some of which are privately owned and rented out. These are far cheaper than booking directly through the hotel. Go to ticbaliholidays to see what is available. At between AU$95-170 per night for a family it’s very cheap. We have squeezed into a 1 bedroom apartment, with two balconies for $100 p/n. Each apartment is equipped with a full kitchen, free drinking water and is serviced daily. Most have sofabeds or extra sofa’s made up for kids, which are quite comfortable.
The Jayakarta has three swimming pools and nice grounds, and it’s right opposite the beach. They also provide a safe in the main office area if you don’t want to leave passports/money in your room. Book well in advance, especially during school holidays.
GETTING AROUND
For a family I would recommend walking or taking a taxi. They are the cheapest and easiest way to get around, although there is a lot of traffic congestion at times. A friend of mine who is a frequent traveller to Bali gave me a business card for the driver she uses. On our first trip we arrange to meet Norman outside the entrance of the Jayakarta and gratefully jump into the air-conditioned car when it pulls up. But it doesn’t take long before we realise something’s not right. I look at the picture on the business card and then the driver. I ask the driver again. “Are you Norman?” “Yes, yes” he replies. “I’m Norman”. I whisper to Pete. “It’s not the same guy”. We show the driver the business card and ask if he is that Norman. “Oh no, I’m not that Norman”. He points to his I.D on the dash. “I’m that Norman”. We explained that we had made a mistake and asked him to pull over. We jogged back to the hotel to meet up with the ‘real’ Norman. Of course there are multiple Norman’s in Bali. This we know now! Balinese sons are named after their position in the family. i.e 1st born Wayan or Putu, 2ndMade. 3rdNyoman etc etc
FOOD
BREAKFAST & LUNCH
To keep costs down buy cereal, bread etc at the Bintang Supermarket and have breakfast in your apartment. It has a good variety of food and they even sell alcohol. Upstairs there are souveniors, stationary, and some clothing/shoes (all at marked prices), so if you’re sick of haggling it’s a nice break. It is a good 20-30 min walk from the Jayakarta and in the heat of the day it’s not very pleasant. In an attempt to get some exercise Pete took to jogging there with a small backpack in the morning before it got too hot. It’s quite unusual for the locals to see people jogging through the streets and some began to cheer him on, shouting ‘go running man go’ and clapping as he ran past. By the time he got back he felt like he’d won a marathon!
Tommy’s Cafe
This has to be the best Sandwich Bar in all of Bali, and it’s a two minute walk from the Jayakarta. It has limited seating and fills up very quickly. The wait for food can be lengthy if it’s busy, but you can order takeaway. Call ahead to place your order. The crispy baguettes and smoothies are the best.
Another good sandwich bar is Swich located in JL Bisma. It’s a bit further to walk but can accommodate more people with extra seating outside at the rear. It also sells healthy icey-poles.
DINNER
La Monde Restaurant
We loved this restaurant and ate here most nights. It’s only a couple of minutes walk from the Jayakarta. La Monde has a combination of traditional and western food. Our kids loved the chicken satay skewers and pizzas. The staff are super friendly.
Warung Murah Restaurant
For a more traditional meal head to Warung Murah. This restaurant is a little different. You are given coupons each time you order something. The kids can practise their maths skills by trying to add them all up at the end of the night.
Street Food
For a taste of street food try grilled corn on the cob. It is seasoned with a garlic butter/mayo sauce and is delicious, and it’s a pretty safe option. There are usually hawkers behind the Jayakarta by the beach.
THINGS TO DO IN BALI
Enjoy the beach
The beach directly opposite the Jayakarta. You can rent sun loungers, boogie boards or go for surf lessons. There are hawkers on the beach, but they are friendly and simply trying to make a living. We bought sarongs and had our nails painted. Once you have make a couple of purchases word seems to spread and they mostly leave you alone after that.
Baby sea turtle release Kuta
If you time it right you can watch the release of baby sea turtles. This takes place on Kuta beach, to find out when visit their website.
Waterbom Park
A MUST DO in Bali is WaterBom Park. It’s heaps of fun. A day pass for a family of 4 costs around AUS$100 (kids under 11). Get there early and spend the day. To save money on food exit the park (you can return later with a stamp) and cross the road to the Discovery Shopping Centre. It’s a nice place to relax and there is a fantastic bakery where you can buy lunch. Bread Talk sells seriously delicious sweet and savoury buns and it’s super cheap.
Kiteboarding
The nearest kiteboarding area is Sanur. Bali kitesurfing have a great set-up with reasonable prices. Pete was just learning when we took this holiday so he was pleased to have some one-on-one attention, and if you get into trouble Kadek will zip out in a small motorboat and help you to get going again. You can also check out some of the more remote beaches in the area.
White water rafting
White Water Rafting in Bali is definitely worth doing. The scenery is spectacular. After a short walk you are deep in the valley, surrounded by tropical forest. Molly was seven at the time which I was a little nervous about, but the guides are great at looking after young children. The rapids are not too large, Grade 2-3 at the most. We were a little anxious about rafting over the waterfall at the end, but it’s actually fine.
A delicious buffet lunch is included in the cost. The open-air restaurant, perched on a hilltop, has exceptional views of rice fields and the river below. There are toilets and showers as well. TIP: If you are planning on staying in Ubud for a few days I would suggest rafting from there, as it’s a lot closer to the Telaga Waja River than Legian. TicBaliHolidays can arrange this for you. Cost is approx AUS$30 p/p.
Ubud
ACCOMODATION
We stayed in Villa Bulan Mas. The cost was AUS$150 p/n. Breakfast is another $5 p/p but is definitely worth it. There is fresh fruit and coffee, omelettes and toast as well. A friendly staff member will prepare breakfast for you, then clean the villa and pool while you eat, and also do your dishes afterwards. Talk about spoilt! It was a little out of Ubud, but we didn’t really mind, as the walk into town was good exercise. You can also find villas to rent at Stayz, Booking.com or Airbnb, or go to ticbaliholidays.
Walking from the Villa into Ubud by braving the main road is not for the faint-hearted. I would not recommend doing this with young children. Cars and motorbikes fly past while you hug the gutters nervously. For the first kilometre there is no footpath to speak of and crossing the road is hazardous. It takes a bit longer, but a better option is to use the labyrinth of narrow paths, which start from behind the villa. The paths will take you past homes, other villas and small restaurants. A flock of geese live nearby, and are often seen swimming in the water channels. Go down the Penestanan stairs and turn right to get to the main road. Use the footpath for the rest of the way. There is also a large supermarket if you turn left.
We stopped for cold drinks at Heaven Villas restaurant. We loved the gardens and rice fields that surrounded it. We were also impressed by the cleaning skills of some of the staff, although a little concerned about their lack of OH&S practise.
FOOD
Ubud abounds with funky cafes and restaurants. We lunched at Cafe Maha, which had nice outdoor seating with the added bonus of pet rabbits lolloping about for entertainment.
One of the most unique restaurants and only a five minute walk from the villa is Cupit BBQ Restaurant. Surrounded by jungle, the building appears to sprout from the river below, its mossy exterior walls blending in with the damp surroundings. The warm glow of the restaurant lights give it a welcoming feel. It is known for it’s sticky ribs and they are definitely worth ordering.
THINGS TO DO IN UBUD
Monkey Forest
Probably the most popular attraction in Ubud, the Monkey Forest has a beautiful lush interior with temples and even a handful of market stalls. The mystical Dragon bridge is said to be hundreds of years old. It appears to slice through an ancient Banyon Tree, which in turn shrouds the bridge in it’s hanging roots.
You can buy bananas to feed the monkies, but be careful, they are greedy and unpredictable. At one point I put my backpack on the ground, but the moment I unzipped it a monkey had bounded up and snatched a bottle sunscreen from inside. TIP: Don’t wear dangling jewellery, carry food or open bags if you don’t have to.
Ubud Art Market
This huge market seems to go on forever. It’s cram-packed with souvenirs, clothing, jewellery and alike.
Ubud Palace
I had travelled to Ubud in 1996 and was surprised to see how busy it had become. The Ubud I knew then was just starting to attract tourists with spa’s and yoga retreats. I recall sitting in a café near the Palace, enjoying lunch, when I heard loud squealing noises. Looking out the window, a few meters away, were three large pigs tied to bamboo sticks. After the first pigs’ throat was cut and blood spilled down the steps I decided to leave. I was stunned that this sacrifice had suddenly taken place right in front of me. Thankfully, I don’t think this would happen here today.
Kajeng Rice Field Walk with map
Escape the hustle and bustle of Ubud. This amazing loop walk starts at Jalan Kajeng (just look for Starbucks). Walk along the road and then follow the trail between the rice paddies and coconut palms. Watch the locals tend to their crops. I suggest starting early to avoid the heat. It takes around an hour. Cool off with a cold drink at the beautiful Café Lotus afterwards.
For another budget holiday idea – check out our tips for a cheap tropical island holiday in Fiji.