Sri Lanka is a country packed with culture, history and amazing scenery. Do not be deceived by its size. We spent 2.5 weeks here, but you could easily spend longer. There are so many things to see and do that the whole family will enjoy – ancient temples, elephant safaris, traditional dancing, scenic train rides, surf lessons and more.
GETTING THERE: The only airline that flies directly to Sri Lanka from Melbourne is Sri Lankan Airlines. It is a full service airline with great service but it is an expensive option. We flew to Kuala Lumpur, via Singapore on Scoot and then onto Sri Lanka with AirAsia. This was a much cheaper option and we stayed a couple of nights in KL to check it out.
CLICK ON THE MAP TO GO TO A DESTINATION.
GETTING AROUND
I found a great driver/guide, Dasharna, who has access to a large van with aircon and Wi-Fi. This is the best way to travel around Sri Lanka with a family, especially if you want to maximise your time here. The cost for the whole trip was US$1000, with a small additional charge for his accommodation (about US$10 per night). We met Dasharna’s family in Kalpitiya, who were lovely and we trust him completely, to the point where we also shared the house in Kandy and Nuwera Eliya with him. Dasharna was able to negotiate a good price for temple guides, bike hire, entry to shows etc. He can also advise and book accommodation if you need.
Occasionally we used tuktuks to get around if it was a short distance or the van was too large for the narrow laneways.
SRI LANKA DOGS
If you love dogs, like us, then you might find Sri Lanka a little difficult. There are many starving street dogs. The girls found this quite distressing, so much so that they made us buy loaves of bread, and whenever we saw a dog wandering the streets they would make Dasharna slow down so they could fling slices of bread out the window at the dogs. They also bought some cute dog paraphernalia from the Embark store at the airport.
ACCOMODATION
I booked all our accomodation with Booking.com with the exception of the house in Nuwara Eliya, which I found on Airbnb.
Negombo
Palms Villa US$95 p/n
We stayed here for one night at the start of our trip and again at the end before flying out. It is basically a large house with separate rooms for guests. It was a quiet place out of town, and had a pool and a hot tub. There was also a nice area for breakfast, which was plentiful. We stayed in the family room upstairs. It included one queen bed (separated from the other room) and 3 singles, plus coffee making facilities and a large bathroom.
Kalpitiya
Kalpitiya sits on a long skinny peninsula. It has a strong fishing industry, but is also well known as the kiteboarding capital of Sri Lanka, and that’s why we came here.
ACCOMODATION
Margarita Village – US$57 p/n
Margarita Village has a laid-back, beachy feel. It was friendly and cheap, however it is not a 5 star resort. The bathroom was simply a pipe that emitted water in an overgrown garden, surrounded by a woven fence. I personally didn’t mind this. It reminded me of my backpacking days.
You are welcomed with a fresh coconut drink and there is also a nice restaurant onsite which offers good, cheap meals.
THINGS TO DO IN KALPITIYA
Kiteboarding
If you stay at Margarita village you can hire all the equipment or get kiteboarding lessons from the friendly Spanish owner Ruben. He’ll also offer you a lift to the lagoon, or alternatively grab a Tuk Tuk. While Pete went kiting the girls and I attempted to swim on the ocean side of the peninsula, but the sudden depth and current was pretty scary, and there’s definitely no lifeguards on duty here.
Dolphin Safari
On our second day I awoke with a migraine, so Pete and the girls ventured forth on the dolphin safari without me. They left a little later than the requested ‘dawn start’, so the ocean was pretty rough coming back. They saw dozens of dolphins swimming beside the boat, and leaping into the air.
Sigiriya
ACCOMODATION
Sigiriya Village Homestay – US$90 p/n
This was the number one homestay at the time and for good reason. The hosts are very accommodating. The breakfasts were so plentiful that we had to go jogging to make up for eating so much. Every few days there was a cooking demonstration where you can learn about Sri Lankan cuisine. Nothing seemed to be too much trouble for the hosts. *They are currently only renting out one room in their house (I assume due to COVID). Hopefully they will return to normal rental options at a later date.
THINGS TO DO IN SIGIRIYA
Pidurangala Temple
The history at Pidurangala dates back as far as the 1st and 2nd centuries BC. It is said that by ringing the temple bell, the devotee informs the deity of his/her arrival. The sound of the bell is considered auspicious. The 48 foot long sleeping Buddha statue at the temple is the largest brick and mortar Buddha statue in Sri Lanka.
Climb Pidurangala Rock and watch the sun set on Sigiriya
This is a more difficult and longer climb than Sigiriya, and I would keep a close eye on small children at the top. The views, though, are incredible and definitely worth the effort. We were captivated watching the huge red sun set dramatically in the distance.
Climb Sigiriya (Lion Rock)
Costs – US$30 for adults, $15 for children.
This ancient rock fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage site and you can see why. An early start is essential. Get to the ticket office when it opens at 7am. It’s not a hard climb to the top and pretty safe – except for the part where you by-pass the killer wasps. Truthfully – we never saw any.
Originally the mirrored wall was so highly polished that the king could see himself whilst he walked alongside it. At the top, the temple ruins and bathing pools are exquisite.
At the base of the rock there are still more interesting areas to explore and even some unexpected wildlife.
Elephant Safari
After reading many reviews about the larger game reserves in Sri Lanka we chose an intimate safari at Hurulu Eco Park, with only two other jeeps joining us that day. The cost was approx US$150 for the whole family. We saw around 20 elephants, including young ones. We loved getting up close. I have no comparison with the larger game reserves as this is the only safari we did. We mostly wanted to see elephants and didn’t feel the need to see hundreds of them.
We started in darkness, flying down the sealed road in our safari jeep, roof off, wrapping our jumpers around us. As we drive through the park gates our excitement was contagious. We sat in whispering quiet, waiting as our driver went to pay the entrance fee. We drove down the dirt road, trees and shrubs hugging us from both sides. As we turned the corner a small herd appeared, feeding in the bushes, then walking across the road in front of us.
There looked to be elephants of all different ages, including two young calves. We watched as one sucked up dirt in its trunk and sprayed it over its back, while one of the baby elephants tried to mimic it. We felt privileged to be so close to the elephants.
Driving back, now with the sun beating down, we could not resist when our driver suggested we stand up and enjoy the ride. With the wind in our hair and not a care in the world (except the fear of veering off the road and crashing) we delighted in the freedom that Sri Lanka afforded us.
*Elephants are so plentiful in Sri Lanka that as you drive past some national parks you can even spot them on the roadside.
Polonnaruwa
ACCOMODATION
Seyara Holiday Resort – US$80 p/n
This hotel is only a few kilometres from the ruins. It has large rooms with many balconies and a nice swimming pool. The staff were super friendly and the breakfast was amazing. We loved the mix of foreign tourists and Sri Lankan nationals staying here.
THINGS TO DO IN POLONNARUWA
Explore the ancient city
This ancient city is more than 800 years old. Entrance fees are $US17 p/p. The best way to see the once medieval capital, is to hire bikes and a guide. Darsharna organised the bike hire from a shop about 1km from the ruins. We rode along the road briefly but were soon on the cobbled paths within the gates and cycling through the large complex. Our guide zipped along on his scooter in front of us and would be there waiting for us at each new ruin.
A simple breakdown of the colour meanings on the Buddhist flag;
Blue=Universal Compassion
Yellow=The Middle Path
Red=Blessings
Orange=Wisdom
White=Purity
FOOD
For a real traditional Sri Lankan meal you can’t go past Rasa Bojun Gedara. Dasharna recommended we eat at this restaurant. It was a wonderful experience. The owners were so friendly, even showing us around their garden afterwards. To find it turn off the main road onto Deewara Mawatha Road.
Dambulla Cave Temple
Dambulla Caves is on the way from either Polonnaruwa or Sigiriya to Kandy. I loved this temple and its setting. It is a very tranquil place. Entrance fees are SLR1500 (US$8), under 12’s half price.
Dambulla Caves were originally occupied by Buddhist hermits, monks and finally different kings over time. There are multiple caves in which you can view statues and learn about their history. The first cave has a carved image of Buddha depicting the parinibbana (the last moment), which is around forty-seven feet in length.
To help us understand the history of Dambulla Caves we purchased a booklet for RS250. Unfortunately the translation did not enlighten but it did ellicit a few giggles. Maybe Google Translate could have helped out here!
Kandy
ACCOMODATION
Serene Villa is a large house with 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. It cost -US$80 p/n. The owners, who live downstairs, were lovely and happily gave us a tour of their property. They showed us the view from their rooftop balcony and told us stories about the wild monkeys who lived in the forest behind them. They also cooked an amazing breakfast, which included super tasty mini sausages.
FOOD
Kandy has many great restaurants and quite a few western choices. We ate at the Empire Cafe, which is a European restaurant close to The Temple of The Tooth. It has nice decor with its large cane chairs and artwork.
THINGS TO DO IN KANDY
Traditional Kandian dances and Firewalking
Dasharna organised for us to see some traditional Kandian dancing and firewalking. You can book tickets online for around US$8 each. This is a great way to experience some Sri Lankan culture. Held in what feels like a community hall, it pays to get there early for a good seat. After the dancing everyone spills into the carpark for the Pièce de résistance – the fire-walking.
Royal Botanic Gardens
Escape the bustle of Kandy and visit the Royal Botanical Gardens, which are spread over 147 acres. There is a colony of fruit bats, giant bamboo, lakes, an orchid house and more. You could easily spend a few hours here. Entry is SLR1500 (US$8) for adults and half that for children under 12.
Temple of the Tooth – Evening Puja
This incredibly beautiful temple lies within the ancient palace complex. The relic of the tooth of Buddha has special significance. It is believed that those who have possession of the tooth govern the country. During the Civil War, in 1998, the temple was bombed when a truck laden with explosives crashed through the palace gates. The bomb detonated in front of the temple, killing 16 people and damaging the entrance. To this day security guards still man the gates, checking bags before you enter.
We attended the evening Puja (prayer). Much emphasis is placed on the viewing, or rather glimpsing of the golden casket, which holds the relic, which holds the tooth. For exactly fifteen minutes the solid doors to the chamber are opened and those passing by can gaze upon it. So we donned our sarongs and left our shoes in storage at the entrance. At 7pm we slowly shuffled our way along with the crowd of people moving up the staircase.
As 7.15 approached a sense of urgency began to seep from within the crowd. Bodies bumped and jostled. Our guide pushed and pulled us between people to get a glimpse. A blinding golden glow radiated from the doorway. Then the doors were shut tight, leaving everyone to murmur and move on.
Our guide led us through the remainder of the temple, until we finally stepped into the refreshing night air. As we stood in the darkness he must have felt inspired and imparted some final words of wisdom at the girls, about being good, and doing good, and treating your parents with respect; all the while Pete and I stood smiling and nodding in agreement. Looking back perhaps this was his way of impressing said parents in hope of eliciting a larger tip. Either way it worked on us. We tipped him generously and waved goodbye, heading off to retrieve our shoes. Not so fast – we spent the next few minutes unzipping bags and diving into pockets in search of rupee while the shoe guard looked on impatiently, unable to hide his disapproval. We tried to explain, but to no avail, no payment – no shoes. Eventually we called Dasharna who came to rescue us from our humiliation, handing over SR200.
Nuwara Eliya
ACCOMODATION
AirBnb Lawsons Ridge US$113 p/n
I had trouble finding accommodation in Nuwara Eliya so we ended up booking the only Airbnb house of the trip, but it wasn’t that easy to find. We drove up and down a street full of repair shops and broken pavements searching for the entrance. Someone directed us down an alleyway, which led to a gate and finally a large double-story house tucked in behind the shops. It was getting dark and I was thankful that Dasharna was with us. But I needn’t have worried. As soon as we jumped out of the van the housekeeper was there to meet us (she lives in a room attached to the house). It turned out to be a lovely house with views across to the park and surrounded by a moat! Although, I couldn’t help but feel like I was sandwiched between two worlds, looking from a bedroom window at the rear of the house and then the living room window at the front.
THINGS TO DO IN NUWARA ELIYA
High Tea at The Grand Hotel
Cost: LKR 1500 (AUS$11) ea. The Grand Hotel was originally built in the early 19th century as a holiday home for Sir Edward Barnes, the then Governor of Ceylon. It is an impressive building with antique décor and an old worldcharm. Where better to experience High Tea than at The Grand Hotel in Sri Lanka? If you have teenage daughters they will love it. Tea is served on the patio outside, but you can go inside afterwards and look around.
Send a Postcard
The Post Office in Nuwara Eliya was built by the British in 1894. For around 50 cents you can send a postcard or letter anywhere in the world. We sent one to ourselves so we could keep it as a souvenir. Handing it to the girls, we suggested they write something on it. They stared back blankly. It took a minute before we realised that they had no idea where to write what, as they had never sent one before. I suddenly felt very old. I guess postcards are all but obsolete.
Tea Plantations
On the way from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya we spotted the Blue Field Tea Factory and asked Dasharna to stop. We went on a short tour of the factory and were shown how the tea was sorted and packaged. The tour was free, but the expectation was you would buy some tea from the shop afterwards. You can also relax with a cup of tea at the café or just wander around.
Scenic Train Ride
The train from Nanuoya to Ella was definitely a highlight of our trip. It takes about 2-3 hours and is said to be the most picturesque train journey in Sri Lanka. Dasharna had tried to get first class tickets but was disappointed he could only get 2ndclass. However, once we boarded the train we realised 2ndclass was better, with little booths and tables to sit at. Book either the 12.45pm or 2.45pm train. Tickets are AU$18 for second class. You can buy tickets from hotels, or at the station, or via this link.
As we clattered along through the countryside we had a fleeting glimpse into everyday life. Tea appeared to be grown everywhere. Houses with small lots squeezed in plants wherever they could. Hazy hills, small towns and the occasional waterfall made for some incredible scenery, not to mention the quaint stations the train pulled into along the way.
Ella
The cooler temperature in Ella was a welcome relief. Ella is a bustling tourist town with plenty of western style restaurants. We got our laundry done here, but it was surprisingly expensive (US$20). Our homestay explained that ‘doing laundry’ is looked upon as a very unfavourable occupation, hence there are not many places that offer this service.
ACCOMODATION
Waterfalls Homestay US$100 p/n
The most picturesque homestay we stayed in all of Sri Lanka, with incredible views of a distance waterfall. Wonderful warm hosts that baked fresh muffins and offered friendly advice. The only negative was the barking dogs that kept us awake some nights.
FOOD
Ella has a lot of great restaurants and cafes. We ate at Café Chill, which was good with lots of choices to please everyone.
THINGS TO DO IN ELLA
Walk along the railway line into town
The path starts from behind the homestay, up the stairs. When you reach the tracks it feels like you’re in a scene from Stand By Me. We didn’t encounter a train however, much to the girls disappointment.
Hike to 9 Arches Bridge
This beautiful bridge was built in 1921 entirely out of brick, rock and cement. It is said, that when WW1 broke out the steel that had originally been assigned for its structure was quickly redistributed to help in the battlefront.
Hike to Little Adams Peak
Little Adam’s Peak is 1141m high, and a pretty easy hike. It only takes 2-3 hours return and the views are amazing. We stopped for lunch at 98 Acres Resort & Spa, sharing burgers and soaking up the view from their large restaurant balcony.
Mirissa
ACCOMODATION
The Secret Garden US$130 p/n.Tucked down a laneway The Secret Garden lived up to its name, with it’s tranquil setting and lush gardens. We had two rooms next to each other on the ground floor, each with a bathroom. There was also a lovely outdoor dining area where we ate delicious breakfasts. The location was great as we could walk into town and the beach.
FOOD
There are plenty of restaurants in Marissa. The ones further back from the beach are cheaper. We ate at O Marissa Café and Bistro, enjoying really nice pizza’s.
THINGS TO DO IN MIRISSA
Enjoy the Beach
Walk to the top of the crumbling cliff to get great views of the beach, then go for a swim or two or three. The water is incredibly warm and the waves just perfect.
Watch the sunset
Enjoy dinner on the beach while watching the sun set. Although this is not the cheapest option it is definitely worth doing. Choose from the fresh fish displayed on tables at the front of each restaurant or order something off the menu. We ate at Zephyr Restaurant and Bar, but we had to be a little pushy to get a good table.
Surf Lessons
We spent around US$13 per person for a one-hour lesson, with as much time afterwards as you wanted to surf.
Galle
Galle is a town surrounded by ancient fortified walls, built predominantly by the Dutch around 1640. We only spent half the day here on the way back to Negombo. We walked along the fort wall and then ventured into town, stopping for lunch and wandering around the quaint streets. It’s a relaxing way to spend the day.
Stilt Fishermen
On the drive back to Negombo we spotted some stilt fishermen. As we slowed the van to take a photo a man came running over, demanding I pay for the picture I had taken. I really didn’t think I had anything worthwhile and didn’t want to look as he was trying to take my camera and delete the photo’s. A long, heated argument ensued between the man and Dasharna, until finally we pulled away. When I checked later I found this photo – sorry Dasharna.
