We fell in love with Vietnam, especially it’s culture and cuisine. Admire the old world charm of Hoi An. Brave the bustling streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter or relax on the calm waters of Halong Bay.
FLIGHTS WITHIN VIETNAM
We flew Vietjet from DaNang to Hanoi. They were cheap and reliable. At the time it cost $AU230 for 5 people one way.
HOI AN
ACCOMODATION
We stayed at Muca Resort and Spa in a 2 bedroom apartment, cost AU$110 p/n. They also arranged an airport shuttle for us from DaNang. The cost for a 7 seater was AU$30 each way. We loved this resort. The setting is beautiful with lush gardens, a lovely pool and nice outdoor seating areas on the river. The resort is a little out of Hoi An, but they offer a free shuttle service for guests.
There’s even a lovely spa. Treat yourself to a massage and relax!
FOOD
Best Banh Mi in Vietnam
You can’t go to Vietnam without having Banh Mi. A type of sandwich served in a crispy baguette. Usually with pork or any cold cut, pate, fresh/pickled veg, coriander and dressing. According to Anthony Bourdain the best place to get one is Banh Mi Phuong in Hoi An, and we’d have to agree. If there’s a long ‘takeaway’ queue bypass the line to grab a seat inside.
A Banh Mi is roughly AU$2. Just look for the line down the street on Phan Chau Trinh. If you stay at Muca and catch the shuttle bus it drops you outside Bebe Tailors. Banh Mi Phuong is not far from there.
Salt Field Restaurant & Cafe
If you want a cheap meal option head to Salt Field Restaurant and Cafe. It’s only 500m from Muca and an easy walk. Take in a slice of local life along the way. The restaurant is right on the river and has nice views.
Mix Greek Restaurant
If you’re sick of Vietnamese food… WHAT! I hear you say. I know, I know, how could anyone be sick of Vietnamese food, but just in case, try Mix. It’s a Greek Restaurant near the Japanese Bridge. The large platters are definitely worth ordering.
Vietnamese Coffee
Vietnam is famous for it’s coffee, but with temperatures around 30° and humidity over 80% a hot coffee is not very refreshing. Instead we headed to Hoi An Roastery and ordered an iced coffee. They welcome you with a cold cloth and if you head upstairs there is even a portable air conditioner and some relaxing lounges.
THINGS TO DO IN HOI AN
Go Shopping
Hoi An’s historic Old Town is charming. Trees and Boganvillia cascade over colourful shopfronts, with lanterns strung between them. The shaded areas are a welcome respite from the heat. There are many craft and clothing stores, and it’s a great place to buy souvenirs.
Take a boat ride
If you get tired of walking take a boat ride on the Thu Bon River. There are many boat owners near the Japanese Bridge competing for your custom so bring your bargaining skills.
Relax at the beach
The shuttle bus from Muca can also drop you at the local beach. It’s not the prettiest beach I’ve ever been to, but there are loads of sun loungers to relax on. Buy a cold drink from one of the restaurants and chill for a while. We didn’t swim here, although we did see other tourists in the water.
See Hoi An at night
When night falls and the heat of the day subsides a little, people begin to spill onto the streets. Coloured lanterns light up the sky, filling it with enchantment.
Visit the Japanese Bridge
Hoi An’s Japanese Bridge was built in the 18th century. It is said to have been created by the Japanese who were living in Hoi An at the time, as a way to reach the Chinese quarter across the water. It is so romantic many young couples pose for photographs near the bridge, and if you think it’s nice during the day – wait until you to see it at night.
HANOI
ACCOMODATION
E.Central Hotel in the Old Quarter is by far one of the best hotels we have ever stayed in. The service, rooms and breakfast are AMAZING! The Penthouse has interconnecting rooms AU$300 p/n. It has a large balcony where you can look down on the street and watch the bustle of life go by. The rooms are quiet, with very little street noise – or 2 x Double rooms with extra bed AU$240 p/n is the other option if the Penthouse is not available.
The buffet breakfast is incredible and something the girls looked forward to every morning. After gorging ourselves on sweet pastries, omletes, bacon, sausages and fruit (ok so we didn’t have much room left for fruit), we would bulge onto the sticky streets of Hanoi ready for anything. E.Central also offers a reasonable transfer service. The wonderful staff personally walked me to a pharmacy to get medicine and gave all the girls a traditional mask because it was Children’s Week. They could not do enough for us. If you want the experience of a 5 star hotel without breaking the bank, then stay here, even if it’s only for a couple of nights.
The balcony provided us with amazing views of the streets below and surrounding buildings.
FOOD
Vietnamese food is fresh, fragrant and tasty. Our favourite restaurants (both within walking distance of the hotel) were Aubergine Café and Hanoi Food Culture, but make sure you try the street food as as well.
Egg Coffee
Try an egg coffee from the original Café Giang. It was opened by Mr. Nguyen Van Giang in 1946. The son of the café’s founder claims that his father developed the recipe for the drink when milk was scarce in Vietnam in the late 1940s, replacing the dairy product with egg yolk.
THINGS TO DO IN HANOI
Check out the Old Quarter
Hanoi’s Old Quarter is a bustling, noisy place. People live out their lives on the street front.
Free Walking Tour
The Hanoi Free Walking Tour is one of the best things we did in Hanoi, and it’s free. The university students are knowledgeable and kind, and they love to practise their English skills. We visited Hanoi’s oldest house, narrow laneways and marketplaces.
The streets are teeming with motorcycles and rickshaws. The “meep meep” of horns is relentless and the traffic lights, well frankly they’re pointless. We must have looked very nervous crossing the roads, so the two students graciously took matters into their own hands. As we approached each intersection they walked into the middle of the road, stood still, raised their hands to stop ALL the traffic, then motioned us across safely.
Thankfully as time went by we got more confident and eventually tackled the traffic like locals – Cross when you like, just keep walking, never stop in the middle of the road, have faith, everyone should just swerve around you! If you survive buy the T-Shirt.
The Temple of Literature
The Temple of Literature and National University was originally built in 1070 and dedicated to Confucius, scholars and sages. The building is extremely well preserved and is a excellent example of traditional-style Vietnamese architecture. The grounds are well manicured and peaceful.
Vietnam’s annual Children’s Festival
The Children’s Festival is held in January every year. The Moon Festival is traditionally a harvest festival, but its celebrations are often linked to fertility, which is why the Vietnamese celebrate it as a children’s festival. Unfortunately around this time Anna was suffering from Bronchitis (something we really didn’t have time for) so Pete and Sally decided to check it out on their own. Beware you could easily lose one another in the heaving mass of people, toys, and heat. Definitely not for the faint-hearted. If you need to cool off try the rolled ice-cream.
Hoan Kiem Lake
This lake is a fairly serene splodge amongst the chaotic bustle of the Old Quarter. Walk across the stunning Rising Sun Bridge to see the temple on Jade Island. Keep a look out for turtles along the way.
The Ho Chi Minh Museum was closed when we were there, but a good alternative is the Woman’s Museum. It was very educational and a good place to visit on a hot day….okay any day, because every day is a hot day in Hanoi.
HALONG BAY CRUISE
Halong Bay is remarkable. Its natural beauty is undisputable. Jagged limestone mountains rise up from the blue-green water, towering over tiny huts and boats sheltering beneath them. Their rugged appearance softened only by the trees and shrubs cascading from their peaks. The bay is best seen over 2 or 3 days rather than just a day trip.
We (ok I) was drawn to the advertising to see Halong Bay, via Cat Ba Island. Reviews claimed it was less crowded and Cat Ba Cruises itself promised hidden lagoons and deserted beaches. Never mind that it took a whole day to get there – bus – ferry – bus – tiny bumpy boat – big boat. If you have no intention of staying on Cat Ba Island I would not recommend this option. We paid US$800 for 2 days/1night. The boat itself was adequate and quite spacious, but the A/C was turned off in the middle of the night, and the meals were average. If you stay at E.Central ask them to organise your Halong Cruise instead.
There were lagoons to kayak around, but they can get crowded, with plenty of other boats having the same idea. Many tourists flock to Halong Bay every year, perhaps contributing to the amount of rubbish already floating on the bay. Some areas have been tarnished with polystyrene and plastic bags (something we had to dodge while kayaking). Halong Bay is a “must see” but be prepared – it is not pristine.
Locals have made their homes on makeshift pontoons, with most irking a living from fishing. Some homes are nothing more than a small shed, while others have grown into sprawling platforms, that even include restaurants. The bay supports more than just tourism, it supports an entire community.
Monkey Island
We stopped (as do most boats) at Monkey Island. The water is beautiful and clear. It’s a great place to go for a swim or a walk. WARNING: Do not get too close to the monkeys. We saw a woman get attacked by one while we were there. They are not friendly and are just scavenging for food. Don’t leave items on the beach unattended either. It’s OK to eat at the restaurant though. If the monkeys get too close just scream loudly and make a scene. The owner will come running over with a large stick and chase them away.
Motoring along over the calm waters of the bay you can’t help being in awe of it’s vastness. As the sun sets behind the rock, you find yourself hoping the future of this majestic bay is clean and promising.
Safety
For Pete’s sake, we have to show off some of the pics he took of the electrical nightmares we encountered in Vietnam.
